It was August 2021, and all I wanted to do for my birthday was go on a backpacking trip. I had never been backpacking before and luckily my adventurous boyfriend was very much up for the challenge. Since I had been to Asheville, North Carolina the year before, I knew North Carolina would be a great place to head into the mountains for a long weekend.
After some research, Grandfather Mountain caught my attention. It is an iconic mountain located in western North Carolina, known for its remarkable beauty and rugged trails. The towering cliffs and breathtaking panoramic views make it one of the most sought-after destinations for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers on the East Coast. This trail system is quite challenging, requiring careful navigation due to steep rock faces, narrow ridges, and the occasional use of ladders and ropes.
At this point in time, we were traveling in a Ford E350 van that was built out as a camper. The van had become our trusty companion on road trips, offering us the freedom and flexibility to explore new destinations at our own pace. The cozy interior of the van was thoughtfully crafted by my boyfriend, with a comfy bed, storage compartments, a small kitchenette equipped with a water dispenser and fridge, and an outdoor shower. It truly felt like our home away from home.
To ensure all of our belongings were safe while we spent the next several days on the mountain, we reserved a campsite at Julian Price Campground. This beautiful, remote campground is nestled in the wilderness along the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, just adjacent to Price Lake. Surrounded by towering trees and picturesque landscapes, it provided the perfect setting for our adventure. Although it did not have good cell reception, the park rangers were always available to provide helpful tips and guidance if needed.
Not only did choosing this campground offer a good sense of security, it was also extremely convenient. We didn’t have to worry about commuting to the trailhead as the campground was strategically located right next to the Boone Fork Trail. This meant we could start our backpacking trip right from the campground, saving us precious time and energy.
Three Day Backpacking Itinerary β€Έ
If you don’t already have AllTrails on your smartphone, I highly recommend downloading the free app. I also recommend paying for the AllTrails+ subscription ($35.99 per year) so you can download the trail maps to use even when you don’t have cell service. If you’re interested in the paid subscription, you can use my affiliate link to get 30% off. As always, remember to leave no trace to preserve these precious ecosystems for future generations to enjoy.
Banner Elk, North Carolina
Total Distance: 12.15 miles
Elevation Gain: ~4,000 feet
Type: Point-to-Point
Dog Friendly: Yes
While dogs are permitted on the trails, I cannot stress enough how important it is that you and your dog are physically (and mentally) prepared for a strenuous hike that involves multiple steep ladders. I also highly recommend investing in a long leash + harness pack that has a handle on the top for your dog. This was very helpful in keeping our dog close and safe during difficult sections of the trail.
All campsites on Grandfather Mountain are $18 per night ($15 + $3 transaction fee) and are reservable through Reserve America. There are 13 individual campsites located along the trail system, all of which are hike-in primitive sites only. There are no facilities on the mountain, so be prepared!
Download a map of the trail system before you go β Grandfather Mountain State Park Trail Map
Day 1
Boone Fork Trail (1.10 miles) β€Έ
Tanawha Trail (4.80 miles) β€Έ
Nuwati Trail (1.20 miles)
Total Distance: 7.1 miles
Elevation Gain: ~1,800 feet
Campsite: Refuge
After celebrating my birthday with a surprise breakfast cupcake, we set out onto Boone Fork Trail from our campsite at Julian Price Campground. As we started our hike, breathtaking, lush green views and babbling brooks greeted us. The trail wound its way through the forest as we slowly climbed in elevation, occasionally opening up to vast meadows, where we paused to appreciate the beauty of North Carolina’s nature.
Once we reached the Nuwati Trail, the terrain became steeper with a few stream crossings along the way to our campsite. We originally booked the Hermitage campsite, but upon arrival we were extremely disappointed with the quality of the campsite. It was on a steep incline with tree roots crowding the area so sleeping comfortably in a tent was next to impossible (do not book this campsite). Fortunately, the Refuge campsite was available that night so we were able to switch sites last minute after desperately finding a cell signal. On the way to the Refuge campsite, we took a short detour to climb Storyteller’s Rock, which had spectacular views of the valley below, and was well worth the extra steps!
Upon arriving to the Refuge campsite, we were happy to see an elevated wooden platform for the tent, pulleys to hang our trash (to prevent wildlife from accessing it), and a stream to refill our Osprey hydration packs (using a portable water filter first). While I would highly recommend reserving this campsite for night one of your trip, it is important to note that the Reserve America website cautions that after heavy rains it may not be safe to cross the stream to get to the Refuge campsite (which is why we didn’t book that site in the first place). Luckily, we did not have any issues crossing the stream despite experiencing heavy rains for multiple days leading up to our trip – in fact, our feet didn’t even get wet!
Day 2
Nuwati Trail (0.5 miles) β€Έ
Cragway Trail (1.0 miles) β€Έ
Daniel Boone Scout Trail (1.60 miles) β€Έ
Grandfather Trail (0.2 miles)
Total Distance: 3.2 miles
Elevation Gain: ~1,700 feet
Campsite: Cliffside
After breakfast we packed up and headed back down Nuwati Trail to link up with Cragway Trail. Cragway Trail consisted of a steep, strenuous mile-long uphill climb passing through rhododendron and blueberry thickets. Our backpacks weighed heavier with each step, requiring more frequent breaks than the day before. Before linking up with Daniel Boone Scout Trail, we stopped at Top Crag View and Flat Rock View for amazing panoramas of the Blue Ridge Mountains.
We then continued onto Scout Trail. Here we encountered the first set of cables and ladders that we needed to climb in order to summit Calloway Peak – one of the highest points in the Blue Ridge Mountains sitting at an elevation of 5,946 feet. This was when we realized this journey wouldn’t be a walk in the park. We had our 80 lb. dog, Riley, with us. Although she is an avid hiker and adventure dog, heaving her up these obstacles was no easy feat. It required two adults to get her up safely. Again, I highly recommend investing in a dog pack harness as it wouldn’t have been possible without it.
When we finally reached the top of the mountain, we found ourselves sitting in a cloud. There was no one else in sight. It was so extremely foggy that you could not see a single thing on the horizon. In fact, you could not see more than a few feet in front of you, which, while quite terrifying at times, was actually quite breathtaking. This was a birthday celebration like no other, a gift of nature all to ourselves.
After descending down another set of ladders, we ran into a group of people (the first people we had encountered the entire trip). They told us the Profile Trail was completely closed off for the day due to heavy rains. This was unfortunate news given we planned on sleeping at the Profile campsite that night. Fortunately, the Cliffside campsite was available, which worked out well since we had a rough day of hiking and were ready to call it a night earlier than anticipated.
As its name suggested, the Cliffside campsite was perched on the edge of a cliff. The camping area itself was perfect with a flat and carefully cleared space, offering an ideal spot to set up our trusty tent. The ground, surprisingly devoid of rocks and roots, was perfect for indulging in some much-needed rest. Morning lifted our spirits as we left the Cliffside campsite and moved on to the last part of our journey.
Day 3
Grandfather Trail (0.85 miles) β€Έ
Underwood Trail (0.5 miles) β€Έ
Grandfather Trail (0.5 miles)
Total Distance: 1.85 miles
Elevation Gain: ~500 feet
Campsite: Julian Price Campground
While this leg of the trip was short in distance, it was quite challenging. There were several technical sections involving long, steep ladders to climb down. One section called The Chute, which was extremely rocky, requiring a careful descent with the use of your hands. Again, the long leash + dog harness pack were life savers in ensuring we all got down safely.
We decided to hike the Underwood Trail to bypass the daunting climb up to MacRae Peak. If we did not have Riley, our dog, we definitely would have went the MacRae Peak route instead. Our faithful canine companion trotted by our side, excitedly exploring every nook and cranny along the trail, which presented its fair share of challenges, testing our physical endurance and mental fortitude. Yet, the anticipation of reaching the iconic Mile High Swinging Bridge at the Grandfather Mountain Upper Parking Area kept us motivated.
After what felt like an eternity, we finally arrived at our destination. Standing proudly before us was the legendary Mile High Swinging Bridge, an architectural marvel suspended in mid-air. Stepping onto the bridge, we marveled at the awe-inspiring views that extended as far as the eye could see.
The Top Shop, located nearby, beckoned us with its irresistible offerings. Eagerly, we ventured inside and a delightful assortment of refreshing beverages and delectable snacks greeted us. It was a well-deserved reward after days of rigorous hiking and exploration. Completely exhausted, we called a local taxi service to transport us back to Julian Price Campground, our base camp.
Arriving back at camp, we gathered around a crackling campfire. We reminisced about the challenges we had conquered and the unforgettable memories we had created. It was a celebration of the power of perseverance and the wonders of the great outdoors.
In the end, our first backpacking trip had been an experience of a lifetime. Grandfather Mountain left a lasting mark in our memories. A perfect reminder of the beauty and majesty that lay hidden within the North Carolina borders. As we drifted off to sleep that night, we knew that this was just the beginning of our backpacking adventures.
